The board requires the holes to be first desoldered.
I chose to socket the new IC's simply because the IC's are sometimes old stock that may or may not work
it also makes changing them in the future easier without stressing the PCB.
I used turned pin DIL sockets as they are more reliable
Hard Drive options are:
I went for the Conner CP3040 as its the largest available and I happened to have one to hand.
Parity check must be disabled, certainly on the CP3040, this is done via jumper E4 on the underside of the drive:
For further information on the formatting of the drive please refer to this guide, which although for the SD upgrade
follows a similar path, Click Here
The board that I was converting required that Jumper LK2 was cut:
I was unable to source the component RN2 (899-1-R150), which is a bussed 150ohm resistor network, so I produced my own using discrete components
Its not pretty but it works!
After running HDform on the drive, the result was surprisingly good, seems the drive is in good order after all these years: